Mount Sutro: An Electronic Periodical

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The Dream We Dreamed One Afternoon Long Ago

Lake McDonald, valley and mountains from the Apgar Village boat ramp dock in Glacier National Park.

Apgar Loop, West Glacier, Montana: Monday, 02 September 2019

part of the Glacier National Park album

When I first watched the excellent documentary Stephen Fry In America (2008) about a decade ago, I knew that whenever I got the chance to see Glacier National Park, I wanted to visit the spot where Fry has a conversation with geologist Daniel Faber. When plans to travel to the region materialized earlier this year, I determined the location seen in the documentary. On the thirteenth day of the trip, I finally made it to the Apgar Village boat ramp dock on Lake McDonald.

Stephen Fry and Daniel Faber at he Apgar Village boat ramp and dock on Lake McDonald in  Glacier National Park.
West Park Pictures

At a length of nearly ten miles and a maximum depth of 478 feet, Lake McDonald is the largest lake in the park. Its depth ensures that the water's temperature remains very cold for long periods of time, keeping at bay plankton and other life forms that would otherwise grow. The result is one visually stunning feature, crystal clear water permitting views of multicolored rocks lining the bottom of this glacially-carved lake.

Located at the lake's southern end in Apgar Village, West Glacier, the boat ramp dock offers spectacular views to the north of the Lake McDonald valley and the mountains of Livingston Range and Lewis Range. Prominent features include Mount Cannon and the Garden Wall, terrain through which the Going-To-The-Sun Road winds.

The Apgar Village boat ramp dock itself has been at this location for many years. Historic aerial imagery reveals that no dock was at this location until sometime between 1966 and 1991. A snapshot from 1991 shows a short dock installed, but this structure was replaced by 2003 with a dock approximately twice as long. I find it likely that this is the dock still in service today, although the ladder to the water was installed subsequent to Fry's visit in late 2007 or early 2008.

Just as I saw at Exit Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska — documented in "The Short Time To Be There" — the namesakes of Glacier National Park are disappearing at an alarming rate. Over a decade ago, Faber told Fry something that I remembered in Alaska and that contributed to my wanting to visit this place.

"Essentially, our glaciers have gotten smaller and smaller and the rate at which they're getting smaller is accelerating," said Faber. "And we don't anticipate that we'll have any left by 2020 to 2030."

The Lake McDonald Valley "is the hub of activity on the west side of Glacier National Park" and the lake itself features numerous recreational activities. Fishing is permitted in the lake from the third Saturday in May through 30 November. Boating is also permitted from the second Saturday in May through 31 October, however numerous regulations are in effect to combat aquatic invasive species. For example, gasoline-powered watercraft with trailers are only allowed "after an inspection and after being quarantined for thirty days prior to launch."

Seventy-eight frames were shot for coverage of this location and its magnificent vista, several more of which may yet be published. Although impossible to capture completely the scope and grandeur of a scene such as this, I am generally pleased with the results. Knowing in the moment that the location was well-suited, three frames were shot with a post-production panorama in mind. Assembled using Hugin, the resultant image is best viewed at full-size and on a large display.

The Things That Do Not Get Lost

Wooden carving of a bear holding a fish at the "Welcome To Seward Alaska" sign between storefronts on Fourth Avenue.

214 Fourth Avenue, Seward, Alaska: Tuesday, 20 June 2017

part of the Alaska 2017: Seward album

Following our lunch at Thorn's Showcase Lounge — documented in "The Sweet Sound That Calls The Young Sailors" — we walked around the surrounding downtown area and visited several of the shops there. Exiting Thorn's and heading north, we walked past the building next door to get to the "Welcome To Seward Alaska" sign between storefronts on Fourth Avenue. It currently features a wooden carving of a bear holding a fish. The bear replaced a statue of a man panning for gold sometime after Sunday, 14 July 2013 and before Thursday, 01 June 2017.

Continuing past one more storefront, we came to Urbach's Clothiers (pronounced er–backs) at 218 Fourth Avenue. Opened on Monday, 26 July 1915 by Leon Urbach (1885–1965) as a one-room shop on Fourth Avenue, Urbach's started as a clothier and general store offering items such as men's and women's clothing, shoes, groceries, furnishings, tools and stationary. He was hoping "to capitalize on a federal government plan to build a rail line from Fairbanks to Seward" selling goods to the "railroad workers, gold miners and adventurers streaming through the port town."

Leon Urbach relocated from Idaho to Seward sometime from 1900–1915 and worked at Seward Commercial Company until quitting in 1915 to open his own store. Urbach ran for mayor in 1917, "was first vice president of the Seward Chamber of Commerce" and served "as its president for more than twenty years." In 1919, Urbach married Dorothy Mizenheimer and the couple had two sons, Kenneth (1921–2003) and Lawrence "Larry" (1922–1999). Sadly, Dorothy's death due to pneumonia was reported on Wednesday, 06 December 1933.

During World War II, Leon Urbach served as chairman of the Territory of Alaska Selective Service Board. Perhaps apocryphal, it is said that "the first young man he called to the draft was his son Larry." Either way, Larry did serve two years in the Army and then attended the University of Washington in Seattle. For his service to the Selective Service Board, Leon was summoned to Washington, D.C. sometime from 1945–1953 and recognized by President Harry S. Truman (1884–1972). Leon would also remarry at some point to a woman called Stella.

Disaster struck the stores of Fourth Avenue in 1941 as a fire advanced down the street burning many of the buildings there. As the fire approached Urbach's, several locals came to help Leon save some merchandise from the inferno by moving it out. Leon was pleased by the gesture, but since these items were taken to people's homes, it was necessary to acquire new unused goods to sell at the rebuilt store. Fortunately, Leon's good credit allowed him to restock and restart the business in the same location.

Back in Seattle, son Larry was studying business administration when he met zoology major Dorothy Weil of Hillsboro, Oregon. The two married in June 1950 and continued to live in Seattle where Larry managed two shoe stores. They next moved to Dorothy's hometown of Hillsboro, where her family owned a department store. As Leon and Stella decided to retire and move to Santa Barbara, California in 1954, Larry returned to Seward with Dorothy to take over the family business.

Disaster again affected the store when the great magnitude 9.2 earthquake and tsunami of Friday, 27 March 1964 rocked Alaska. As the temblor began, Dorothy "was standing in front of the cash register because all the men were home sick that day," she said. "It sounded like a locomotive coming through the store. We lost light fixtures. Some of the posts holding the ceiling came down. The shoe shelves toppled over. We lost a lot of structure on the front of the store." After crawling over the debris to retrieve her keys and evacuate the store, Dorothy managed to drive home to Larry and their two daughters Robyn and Susan "Susie" before quickly moving to higher ground.

"The earthquake and ensuing tsunami claimed thirteen lives in Seward." Due to the destruction of the waterfront, the city also lost its title as commercial center of Alaska to Anchorage where the seaport was still intact. This obviously changed the economic situation for Seward and resulted in the permanent closure of many businesses there. Dorothy, "who calls herself a relentless optimist," never considered anything but rebuilding. "The earthquake set us back," she said, "but it also pushed us ahead twenty years because everything had to be rebuilt."

Like his father, Larry was president of the Seward Chamber of Commerce for many years. Dorothy "led the boards of the hospital, the library and the League of Women Voters" among others and "was the publicity chairman of the Seward Silver Salmon Derby" for thirty years. She ultimately took over the store following Larry's death in 1999. Daughter Susie, "who was working there as a part-time bookkeeper" was promoted to partner soon thereafter. Dorothy and Susie Urbach continue to operate the store today.

At the time of my visit six months and nineteen days ago, Urbach's was in operation for 101 years, ten months and twenty-five days. Outlasting "all its original neighbors" and "nearly all the businesses that defined early twentieth century Alaska," Urbach's is the oldest continually operating store in Seward.

In its current incarnation, the store features unique clothing lines including women's wear, scarves, hats, gloves and jewelry. Looking closely, one can see several vestiges from throughout the store's centennial-plus history. For example, a roll-top desk in the back office was originally used by Leon when he did the store's books and typed letters.

In addition, cash payments are still deposited into the store's 1908 National Cash Register Company brass and oak register with fifty-four keys and two drawers. "No one knows how long" this ornate cash register has been in the store, but it has been a long time. The register of course caught my attention as Mom made a purchase. The woman processing the transaction, possibly Dorothy herself, noticed my interest in the cash register and mentioned that it was still functional. I commented that it was lovely, took several photographs of it and then left to continue exploring Seward.

The Sweet Sound That Calls The Young Sailors

Lighted signage on the facade of the Thorn's Showcase Lounge building.

208 Fourth Avenue, Seward, Alaska: Tuesday, 20 June 2017

part of the Alaska 2017: Seward album

One of the best parts of travelling is discovering and trying local bars and restaurants. Whether researched in advance or not, I generally have very good luck with my selections and often wish to return to them. Alaska was no different in this regard and although I enjoyed every place we visited, several of them stood out as immediate favorites. Among those is a restaurant and lounge that has been in Seward for many decades.

With its red padded seating, string lighting and erstwhile decor, walking into Thorn's Showcase Lounge is almost like a trip back in time. A short distance from Resurrection Bay on Fourth Avenue, Thorn's Showcase Lounge is probably best known for serving "bucket of butt" halibut meals, pouring stiff cocktails and displaying a large collection of vintage Jim Beam whiskey decanters. Some people say that the interior brings to mind the look and feel of Las Vegas in the 1960s; I saw a dimly lit retro joint delightfully filled with character, coolness and a bit of kitsch.

The origin of Thorn's Showcase Lounge is tied to another place, Gil's Lounge, which was established in 1946 or 1947 in the Palace Café Building by Harley "Hal" Otto Gilfilen (1903–1989) and his wife Clara or Clair. A few years later in 1950, Gil's Lounge relocated to 208 Fourth Avenue. The Gilfilens operated Gil's Lounge until 1961, at which time they sold the business to Dorothy Johnson.

Meanwhile on Sunday, 02 March 1952, a man called Louis Eugene "Gene" Thorn arrived in Seward and shortly thereafter started employment as a bartender. Born on Friday, 15 May 1931, Thorn used his time serving drinks to learn about the industry, leading to his future ownership of liquor licenses and businesses. He was professionally associated with several notorious bars including Palace (1904–1917, 1933–1985) at 133 Fourth Avenue in 1962; Solly's (1956–1980) at 406 Washington Street in 1966; and Gil's Lounge in 1967. In 1960, Thorn met and married a nurse who had moved to Seward from New York in 1959, Patricia "Pat" Ann Clancy Thorn (1937–2017).

Although signage on the southern exterior wall says that Thorn's was established in 1962, my research suggests that Gene and Pat purchased Gil's Lounge from Dorothy Johnson in 1967. Several fires and earthquakes had dealt devastating blows to Seward, but it was a fire in January 1971 that destroyed the Thorns' business. By Wednesday, 20 October 1971, they had rebuilt and renamed the bar, acquiring Alaska Alcoholic Beverage Control Board license number 1130 in their name. Together, the Thorns owned and operated their business for fifty years while also raising a family including children Craig, Steven E. and Karyn.

The alcohol license holder today is Thorn's Showcase Lounge LLC, formed and assigned entity number 61327D on Thursday, 26 June 1997. The initial documents have Pat and Gene's son Steven E. Thorn and his wife Shannon M. Thorn listed as the corporation's owners, but this was changed to Gene and Pat in a filing issued on Monday, 25 November 2002. Sadly, the corporation was again updated in a filing issued on Thursday, 14 December 2017 to remove Pat's name following her death on Wednesday, 20 September 2017. By his own account in April 2017, Gene had been housebound for the previous six months following a stroke that impacted his use of one arm.

With its relatively small interior and low ceiling, I can only imagine how smokey this place must have been during the heyday of cigarette smoking. Indeed, there was apparently an ashtray next to the toilet on Thursday, 21 May 2009. As part of a growing trend for Alaska businesses, Thorn's Showcase Lounge went smoke-free on Tuesday, 01 April 2014. By Friday, 23 January 2015, Thorn's had also signed a resolution of support for statewide smoke-free indoor workplaces legislation.

Thorn's Showcase Lounge has a number of neighbors in the building that have changed over the years. During my visits on Tuesday, 20 June 2017, the two other storefronts were occupied by The Seward Clipper barber shop and Lacuna Family Medicine. Other business tenants known to occupy space next to Thorn's at one time or another include Luxe Hair; Deb's Hair Salon; Seward Acupuncture and Massage Therapy; Seward Chiropractic Clinic; and Victorian Serenity by the Sea. In addition, several apartments are rented on the second floor above the street-level businesses.

Having learned about Thorn's Showcase Lounge from Mom and Ross, who stopped in for a meal several weeks prior to my arrival in Alaska, I knew that I wanted to see it for myself. It was cold and raining as we drove into Seward, so we decided to go ahead and have lunch first. Stepping through the small vestibule to the inside of the restaurant, I immediately decided that I liked the joint regardless of however my succeeding experiences might turn out. As it was only lunchtime, I had with my meal a pint of my favorite local beer: Alaskan Amber. Everything we ordered was fresh and delicious.

About seven hours later and after considering dinner at a few places like Ray's Waterfront at the marina, we walked back inside Thorn's and returned to our table from lunch, the easternmost half-booth along the northern wall. As before, everything we had was great but of particular note are the tater tots — perfectly cooked to be crispy on the outside yet fluffy on the inside — and the generously apportioned cocktails made at the bar and delivered by the waitress. I enjoyed a few Stolichnaya Razberi and Diet Cokes, my default cocktail, and remarked several times about their potency.

Speaking of liquor, the hundreds of Jim Beam whiskey decanters adorning the wall-to-wall showcases represent only part of a larger collection by Gene Thorn. During his visit, Ryan Reynolds learned that "Thorn has two full bottles in his basement for every one that is displayed" and that his "massive collection encompasses several decades worth" of the specialty bottles.

Jim Beam released a "wood top bowling pin" as its first specialty bottle in 1952. Starting in 1955, Regal China Company was commissioned to design specialty bottles and decanters, "originally created to help drive sales and offer bourbon fans more eye-catching packaging suitable for gifting." With many carrying the "C. Miller" mark, Regal China produced Jim Beam items "for more than forty years" including custom bottles for collector clubs. All specialty bottle production was discontinued in the "early 1990s" but resumed in 2012.

I do not know when I will next travel to Alaska, but Thorn's Showcase Lounge is the kind of place for which I would make a special trip to visit again. With its low-key casual nature, fantastic meals and killer cocktails, there is something for everyone at Thorn's. If they keep it up, they should be able to carry on for another fifty-plus years and I hope that they do.

Visit the Seward album to see all nineteen Thorn's photographs published.